zari and zadozi business: The District Bareilly is selected for Zari-Zardozi

Home / zari and zadozi business: The District Bareilly is selected for Zari-Zardozi
  Jun 12, 2021     Akhilesh Tiwari  

Zardozi comes from two Persian words: zar or zarin meaning 'gold', and dozi meaning 'sewing'. Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base.

Zardozi embroidery is an Indian, Iranian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi embroidered style. Zardozi embroidery designs are gorgeous metal embroidery designs that were previously used to adorn the apparel and garments of India's rulers and royal family members. This intricate art was also employed to decorate castle walls, royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings, and royal elephant and horse equipment. Zardozi embroidery entailed creating intricate motifs with gold and silver threads.

The work's beauty was further enhanced by the addition of studded pearls and valuable stones to the cloth. Originally, the art was done with pure silver wires and actual gold leaf. Due of the exorbitant price of pure silver and gold, the job is now done with a mixture of copper wire with a golden or silver polish and silk thread in current times.

Zardozi embroidery work has been a part of Indian culture since the Mughal Empire began, and it flourished under Akbar's reign, but it declined after the loss of royal support and the advent of industrialisation. In many sections of the country, the latest Zardozi embroidery work is remarkably decorative, and deeply crusted gold thread work has been developed. It gained popularity among rich Hindus, Muslims, and foreigners. Zardozi stitching is thought to be one of India's oldest and most elaborate needlework forms. Since time immemorial, the delicately handcrafted craftsmanship has been revered.

Bareilly, Lucknow, Farrukhabad, Chennai, and Bhopal are among the Indian cities where it is popular nowadays. The zardozi items made in Lucknow and its six neighbouring districts of Barabanki, Unnao, Sitapur, Rae Bareli, Hardoi, and Amethi have developed into a brand with a registered logo to verify its authenticity.

Zardozi will be made in two different styles. The first, karchobi, is defined by its dense stitching on a thick base material like velvet or satin. It's most commonly found on coats, tent covers, furniture, and canopies. The second is kamdani, which is a lighter, more delicate work popular in Rajasthan. Kamdani wears silk and muslin, which are both exquisite textiles. Although this type of work is best suited for scarves and veils, it is now most commonly seen on bridal attire in India.

The design is first sketched on the cloth, then scattered with various metallic wires and forms. Embroiderers in Rajasthan get inspiration for their patterns from various forms and sizes of gold and silver wires and discs. The badla is a thin tightly coiled wire with a thread base, the salmais is coiled and springy, and the dabka is a thin tightly coiled wire with a thread basis. Gijai is a circular, thin stiff wire, and the tilla is a flat metal wire. Asitara is a tiny metal ring that resembles a star, gijai is a circular, thin stiff wire, and the tilla is a flat metal wire. Colored beetle wings and sequins are also frequently employed. Semi-precious stones and pearls are among the most expensive and extravagant zardozi examples.

Zardozi embroidery patterns incorporate circles and triangles into the margins to form a flower body. Triangular patterns with skillfully crafted floral scrolls are common in borders. Hindu mantras, a flowery shower, and peacocks embellish the corners. Sprays, flower buds, and animal figurines abound on the field, notably in the karchobi style. The delicate jaali (net) on some portions of the cloth is another lovely element. Zardozi is now widely used on urban apparel not just in Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, but throughout India. This age-old craft's incorporation into modern life has secured its survival and repute.


Zardozi embroidery sarees, as well as other attires such as lehenga choli and salwar kameez, are quite popular for weddings and other ceremonial and festive celebrations. Gold or diamond jewellery, such as opulent Indian earrings and neckpieces with gorgeous jootis, can be worn with a zardozi embroidery outfit. Glass multicolor bangles are also a lovely addition to a zardozi saree.


One District One Program(ODOP) : The District Bareilly is selected for Zari-Zardozi

Zari work is made from three types of threads-gold, silk and silver. Presently, thousands of micro and small units are involved in the work of Zari-Zardozi in the district. As many as two lakh people are engaged in this work, directly or indirectly. Several items with zari-zardozi work can be found in the market like dresses, scarves, handbags, jackets, sarees, lehngas etc.


Bareilly is a metro city in North-West of Uttar Pradesh. It is situated on Ramganga river bank and is the headquarters of Bareilly Division and is a centre for the manufacture of Furniture, Zari. Bareilly is the 4th city of Uttar Pradesh which has CNG fuel stations, after Lucknow, Kanpur and Agra. Bareilly is the 7th largest metropolitan city of Uttar Pradesh and 50th largest metropolitan city of India. This fast-growing city is also known as Bans-Bareilly, due to its big bamboo market. Bareilly is also known as the counter-magnet city because it is equidistant from New Delhi and Lucknow and has a lot of potential for setting up industries to attract people to settle.



Akhilesh Tiwari
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